Brunello Riserva 2016, the perfect vintage and the relaunch of a typology in an identity crisis

 

After the tastings and the overall evaluation of Brunello new vintage, here we are at the analysis of the Riserva, which this year offered 2016 version for tasting (and soon on the market), considered by many – and probably rightly – to be the best from the beginning of the millennium.

An harvest unanimously considered as five-star (and if there had been the possibility of assigning another, I am sure this would have been the case), rainy and cold in spring and then characterized by a summer full of temperature changes and some precipitation to avoid early ripening, so ended with a practically perfect September, with sunny days and cool nights, which therefore allowed practically everyone to bring the grapes to perfect ripeness, both in terms of sugar concentration and - above all - of polyphenolic components.

A vintage of which everything has been said, in a flood of words and adjectives aimed at representing its greatness, but which – beyond  bombastic and enthusiastic declarations – had shown (and clearly still shows) wines featured by finesse, elegance and harmony from its youth, but with the added taste tension and progression typical of the great aging Sangiovese.

Well, more or less the same aspects found in the tastings of Riserva version, a type often criticized and in crisis for some time (including identity), both due to the ever increasing importance that the "selezioni" are gradually assuming in terms of winery estate flagship labels but also due to a general tendency to be compressed, embossed by wood or worse – in some cases – even already tired and excessively mature when placed on the marketplace.

This Riserva 2016 – always limiting the analysis to the labels present this year at Benvenuto Brunello and in this vintage presented by practically all the producers of the appellation – has instead reversed a trend that now seemed incontrovertible, highlighting a very high average quality standard (practically never below 90 points), perhaps without absolute peaks but in almost all cases with open and expressive versions, with well integrated wood and generally devoid of that "monolithic" austerity that very often limits its development, characterized by intact fruit and by dense but mature and elegant tannins, as well as showing an important territorial recognition and differentiation (which at the moment seems to be missing from 2017).

In short, a version that, in the wake of the great harvest and in continuity with what was shown last year by the "vintages" and "selections", lends itself to being drunk and enjoyed practically immediately but which - in all probability - will reserve great surprises and satisfaction over the years.

Below you can find the list with my personal TOP FIVE, plus two "bonus tastings" which – albeit for different reasons outside the 2016 Riserva – have impressed me favorably.

 

5) Caprili AdAlberto Riserva

Ruby/garnet, medium intensity and nice consistency. Intense nose, with beautiful finesse and good definition. Eucalyptus, sweet spices, delicate fruity and floral notes. Full-bodied, full and juicy on the palate, very well balanced between acidity and tannin. Very good persistence, beautiful cleaning on the finish, characterized by references of ripe fruit and light toasted/woody notes. Rich and very enjoyable. 93

 

4) Sesti Phenomena Riserva

Garnet, intense and dense. Very attractive nose, mature without being heavy or sitting and featured by good complexity. Black cherry, plum, sweet note reminiscent of carob, balsamic and undergrowth nuances in the background. Mouth of great quality, decidedly important and powerful but at the same time tasty and dynamic in its development. Very good persistence, finish coherent with the nose. A classic that never betrays. 93+

  

3) Capanna Riserva

Almost perfect bright garnet, high density. Good nose also if not exceptional, delicate but at the same time penetrating, fine even if lightly compressed. Ethereal, mentholated, delicate fruit, practically absent wood. Sumptuous mouth, rich but dynamic and very precise in development, with acidity and tannin fused to perfection and beautiful and refreshing savory. Excellent persistence, elegant finish in which delicate woody notes peep out. Fantastic taste. 94

 

2) Sanlorenzo Bramante Riserva

Slightly garnet ruby ​​red, very deep (perhaps even a little too much) and dense. Intense, sunny and elegant nose. Fresh fruit, floral nuances, blood orange, light menthol note. Full-bodied in the mouth, very fresh and deliciously flavored, with mature tannins and the (high) alcoholic component blended perfectly into the structure. Very long in the mouth, extreme cleanliness on the finish. Great version, following producer style and with very important aging skill. 94+

 

1) Uccelliera Riserva

Garnet, less charged than average, dense and bright. Intense, fine and expressive nose. Sweet spices, earthy notes, reminescent of face powder, cherries, a slight menthol in the background. Excellent and full-bodied mouthfeel, with a delicious flavor and dense but velvety tannins. Very important persistence, final on delicate toasted and boisè notes. Another wonderful interpretation of the vintage by a winery that this year presented a terrific (vintage and riserva) Brunello pairing. 95

 

BONUS TRACK 

Lisini Ugolaia 2016

Iconic label, technically a selection which however, coming out a year later, is well comparable to the Riserva. Intact ruby, intense but not excessive, dense and luminous. Fresh and elegant nose, deep and undoubtedly coherent with the vintage, even if not yet a monster of complexity. Mentholated note, red fruit, light woody. Rich mouth, well defined in its character, with a very good mix between freshness and tannins, excellent gustatory grip and exceptional persistence. Splendid right now and with important evolutionary skills. 94+

 

Le Chiuse DieciAnni Riserva 2012

A sort of super Riserva, obtained from the smallest bunches of the oldest vineyards and which for some years the company has chosen to rest for a very long period in the bottle, placing it on the market ten years (or almost) after the harvest. Classic garnet, dense but less luminous than others. Delicate but fine and deep nose, in some ways youthful. Toasted hazelnut, fresh fruit, eucalyptus, well integrated wood. Full-bodied mouth, juicy even if less impactful than expected, harmonious and with precise and chiseled tannins. An incisive and very long finish, on toasted notes and light boisè references. 93+