Virtual travelogue of an (almost) neophyte discovering the Alsace of wine

 

During the period that the pandemic forced us to live, one of the things I missed most were the events, moments of growth but also carefree days in which to meet together with producers, professionals and simple enthusiasts to share impressions of the wonderful world that unites us.

Slowly it’s starting again, and the hope of all of us is not to have to go back, but we must admit that the year just ended, in which our sociality was forcibly limited, it also brought with it some small positive implications, situations or opportunities that in conditions of "apparent normality" we would not have been able to seize.

Personally, one of these was the opportunity to participate to Millésimes Alsace Digitasting, a virtual fair on a territory - Alsace - which I wanted to deepen to many time but which until yesterday represented, for me, almost a blank canvas, a story yet to start writing.

In addition to having been able to attend a series of thematic webinars on this territory and on the vines that find a home in it, by sending a beautiful series of samples I was able to taste the wines of five between the most prestigious wineries of the region, managing to get an idea about the style of this important and prestigious wine region.

But before I tell you about my virtual journey, the tastings and impressions that - as an almost novice on the subject - he got from it, it’s important to frame the protagonist of the story.

We are talking about one of the French regions with the largest and most ancient winemaking tradition, which can be geographically located between the portion of land bounded between the Vosges Mountains and the Rhine river (which marks the border with Germany) and which extends vertically for about 150km, broadly between Strasbourg and Mulhouse.

It’s considered one of the "magic clods" of world wine, with white grapes to dominate the landscape and only a minority (about 10%) cultivated with Pinot Noir, the only red allowed.

The authorized white grape varieties are instead eight (riesling, pinot gris, gewurztraminer, muscat d'Alsace, pinot blanc, sylvaner, chasselas and auxerrois), of which the first four originate the wines that represent the top of the qualitative pyramid of the region, namely the AOC Alsace Grand Cru.

In addition to the Grand Cru ranking (which "dominates" the generic AOC Alsace appellation, often also indicated as Vin d'Alsace), there are two other important mentions, namely "Vendage Tardive", indicating wines obtained with grapes harvested in over-ripening , and “Sélection de grains nobles”, relating to labels made by hand-picked and selected bunches and usually attacked by Botrytis cinerea, normally associated with wines of great value and consequently rather expensive.

Alsatian wines owe their success to two fundamental factors: the exceptional climatic conditions and the conformation of the soils.

In fact, we are talking about an area where rainfall is very low while the hours of sunshine are decidedly numerous. Furthermore, the Vosges play a fundamental role in defining this exceptional microclimate, sheltering the vines from winds and humidity coming from the Atlantic Ocean. Climate, therefore, but also richness and variety of the soil, which passes from areas rich in granite, gneiss and schist, to the siliceous and calcareous ones, to slope down to the alluvial plains where the vine stops its planting.

What will I bring home from this experience? Undoubtedly the awareness that having approached a region rich in different styles even if united by a production philosophy based on respect for the terroir from which everything originates.

Some tastings were enlightening, others disappointing, but in general quality, varietality and pleasantness have transversally linked the labels tasted.

Wines made with Riesling seemed to me to be the most "aligned", with a rather defined base setting, played in almost all cases on a citrusy nose rich in chalky/mineral references, and a mouth that - beyond differences structural in some important cases - speaks a common language made of verticality, flavor and harmony.

Gewurztraminer are different from each other, especially in relation to the sugar residues that are sometimes important and in other cases practically absent, while Pinot Gris are surprisingly rich and structured. Pinot Noir is rather heterogeneous, in some cases fine and elegant, in others more intense and rustic.

  

MY TASTES

My journey to discover the wines of this region, ideally starting from south to north, started from Guebwiller, about 25km north of Mulhouse, home of one of the most famous and iconic wineries in the region, DOMAINES SCHLUMBERGER. A reality of important numbers, which covers about 140 hectares of which even 70 are classified as Grand Cru. Partially biodynamic regime, rather low yields, wines featured by cleanliness and elegance.

2017 Riesling Grand Cru Saering (90+) is fine ed elegant, marked by beautiful citrus and jasmine notes on the note and vertical and harmonious on the palate, which changes pace on the finish showing breadth and power.

Similar in profile although slightly less impactful is 2017 Riesling Grand Cru Kitterle (89), in some respects more linear and didactic but without that character capable of setting off the spark.

Certainly interesting is 2012 Gewurztraminer Grand Cru Kitterle (89), varietal and deep on the nose even if less explosive than expected and feature by a full-bodied and still pushing mouth despite its age and a residual sugar a little bit excessive.

2017 Pinot Noir Les Princes Abbés (88) is also well executed, played on notes of berries, vegetal nuances and woody references, which however is less deep and complex than the others.

 

Continuing my trip, I moved to Pfaffenheim, to arrive to PIERRE FRICK, of the most interesting Alsatian producer. A domaine that for at least two decades has been operating completely in a biodynamic regime, and which is told through original and never banal wines, sometimes excessive but with a personality that overflows from the glass.

Intense and vertical despite some excess oxidative notes and a balance not yet fully achieved is 2017 Riesling Rot Muriè (88), which for some characteristics remind me a macerated wine.

Fine, structured and very pleasant, thanks to the perfect combination of vibrant acidity, persuasive sapidity and good glycerine component, as well as extremely long is 2017 Riesling Grand Cru Vorbourg (92), for me the best tasting among those I had the opportunity to make.

2017 Gewurztraminer Grand Cru Eichberg (90) is also excellent, very intense - almost violent on the nose - even if less impactful than expected and with no great personality on the palate, despite the good balance, the taste-olfactory consistency and the important persistence (brand of the domaine wines factory).

Finally, 2019 Pinot Noir Strangenberg (89+), with a not very intense but extremely articulate and fine nose (almost Burgundian), as well as pleasant and direct on the palate, despite a balance at the moment slightly shifted to hardness.

 

Also in Pfaffenheim is located the third stage of my journey, that is DOMAINE MOLTES. Company also family-run and operating under a certified organic regime, with the declared aim of limiting interventions both in the vineyard and in the cellar. Wines with character, which beyond any little defects are appreciated and remembered.

Didactic and well executed 2019 Riesling Steinbuck (87), an entry-level that without reaching peaks of excellence shows intensity and variety on the nose and a nice mineral nuance on the palate, slightly held back by a structure certainly not monumental.

Excellent is 2019 Riesling Grand Cru Zinnkoepfle (91+), the best corporate taste, exotic on the nose and already perfect in the mouth – despite its youth – with still an important chalky/mineral character perfectly balanced by softness and warmth alcohol.

Definitely particular 2019 Pinot Gris Grand Cru Steinert (88+), a little bit closed on the nose but very pleasant and intriguing on the palate, in which the evident residual sugar blends very well with the flavor and freshness that keep the sip standing, plus an interesting finish marked by elegant spicy hints.

2018 Pinot Noir Sonnenglaenzlé (86) is less performing, with an olfactory intensity bordering on violent but which in the mouth slightly lacks enveloping, balance and complexity, ending up appearing a thin thread.

 

Going up again towards the north, we arrived to Katzenthal, where I stopped - ideally - to visit MEYER-FONNÉ, maybe the reference domaine of the area, with a production that extends for 12 hectares and which includes vineyards belonging to five Grand Crus. Definitely good average quality albeit with a small/big disappointment.

Very good and well executed 2019 Riesling Grand Cru Wineck-Schlossberg (89), very fragrant and intriguing on the nose and balanced and long on the palate, even if a bit too linear in its dynamics.

2019 Riesling Grand Cru Kaefferkopf (83) is instead decidedly subdued - or rather disappointing – it’s not very expressive in its olfactory phase but also not fully balanced in the mouth. A thread is raised on the finish (long and impeccably clean) but considering that it was a Grand Cru it was reasonable to expect more.

Definitely richer and more structured is 2018 Pinot Gris Grand Cru Kaefferkopf (89), opened and varietal on the nose and round and harmonious in the mouth, even if a thread restrained in the drink by an alcoholic note that emerges on the finish.

2018 Pinot Noir Altenbourg (88+) is interesting, featured by a complex and particular nose played on tones of dark fruits, fruit candies, stewed meat and woody and balsamic references, and which in the mouth demonstrates consistency and character even if it still needs some time in the bottle to achieve full harmony.

My journey along the Alsace Wine Route finally ended in Andlau, home of REMY GRESSER winery, one of the best known and most regarded reality in the region. A domaine with over four centuries of history, which develops its production on just under eleven hectares, also falling within three Grand Crus, and which operates in a biodynamic regime trying to bring out the varietal characters but at the same time the identity of terroir.

Pleasant but not transcendental 2018 Riesling Grand Cru Kastelberg (86+), which beyond a persistence that undoubtedly identifies a quality wine, fails to be remembered, also due to a balance not yet perfectly achieved and a slightly drying finish.

With the same general approach, but undoubtedly more rounded and harmonious, 2017 Riesling Grand Cru Moenchberg (88), to which the extra year spent in the bottle has smoothed the excess edges, as well as giving a slightly higher complexity.

2014 Riesling Grand Cru Wiebelsberg (90) is very valid, marked - especially on the nose - by evolved notes that start appearing in the profile but supported by an acidity that is still intact, as well as well balanced by alcohol and roundness, with in plus a nice long and savory finish.

Finally, 2018 Gewurztraminer Grand Cru Moenchberg (88), played on an intense and varietal nose even if less complex than expected and a round and pleasant mouth, despite a slight residual sugar that does not compromise its harmony. The finish is beautiful with sweet and spicy notes.