A day to remember, a winery to discover: Coletti Conti

The world of wine, as I have often had the opportunity to say, is a various universe of people of all levels, with deeply different characters, attitudes and cultural backgrounds.

Producers – also highly esteemed and considered – who struggle to go beyond the pouring of their wines, others who, after years of "habitude", are also able to talk about them and the winery they represent, but always with difficulty and evident reluctance.

On the other hand, there are charismatic and interesting “insiders” who you would listen to for hours, who know how to capture your attention and with which you can talk about everything.

Men and women with whom the time spent always seems to pass too fast.

One of these is undoubtedly Antonello Coletti Conti, owner of the namesake winery and one of the most considered - as well as valid - representers of Piglio Cesanese appellation.

An essential figure of Lazio wine, with whom we had the good fortune to spend a wonderful morning together a few days ago, in which - in addition to tasting the wines that make up the winery line-up - we discussed about wine at 360 °.

We touched on countless topics, from the technical ones associated with viticulture to those ethical, passing through general considerations about the greatness of French wine and on the difficulties of forming a group inide a territory like Piglio, but also retracing the stages that have featured his personal history of producer.

A story that began in 1992, when he - a brilliant law graduate, initiated into a notary career – found himself taking over the family farm, a historic reality of the territory but not too much aligned with the times.

It was love at first sight, with oenology but above all with viticulture, to the point that – as if it were one of those sliding doors that life offers us from time to time – he decided to change his life, dedicating himself body and soul to the project and deciding, for the first time in family history, to vinify and bottle the grapes (which until then were sold to private or given to the cooperative winery).

The first vintage was 2003, and since then results, awards and great satisfactions have followed harvest after harvest, to the point that today the name Coletti Conti is associated with wines of great quality, among the best known and most sought inside the Piglio district.

The style of wines is modern but also respectful of the variety and characteristics of the terroir, bottles in which, beyond the grapes that contribute to the blend, harmony, pleasantness and elegance are never lacking.

Characteristics that I had encountered every time I found myself in front of his labels, and which were also highlighted during the tastings made during this last visit.

Speaking about Cesanese, within the winery lineup normally I prefer Hernicus to the more noble Romanico, cause of its quality/price ratio but also because I consider it a more direct expression of the vine.

This time, however, the parts have reversed, with the second having unquestionably something more, especially in terms of balance and complexity.

But in any case, the average level of the wines tasted it was very high, convincing me once again - if needed - of the value of this reality and the potential of the Piglio terroir.

An area that – I’m sure – we will hear more and more about over the years! 

 

 

The tastings

 

Arcadia Frusinate IGT 2019 100%

Manzoni Bianco - 12/14 months in steel on its fine lees

An unusual vine in these latitudes, a choice that reflects Antonello's personal taste and his convictions regarding whites, and which over the years he has learned to manage perfectly.

The result is surprising. A complex wine, bright in the glass and marked on the nose by beautiful fruity, citrus and floral traces and to which a delicate mineral nuance is added. Mouth consistent, structured, fresh but already balanced despite the evident youth. Virtually imperceptible alcohol despite the important content declared on the label (15 °). Crisp and very clean finish.

Personal rating: 88/100

 

Hernicus Cesanese del Piglio Superiore DOCG 2018

100% Cesanese di Affile - 15/16 months, in cement and in 3rd/4th passage barrique

A great classic of the appellation, much more than the brother of the Romanico, which also this year offers an important and highly valuable version.

Ruby / garnet, dense and clear. Excellent nose, elegant, complex and expressive. Wild berries, violet, intense balsamic notes to give depth, delicate woody nuances in the background. Mouth varietal and full-bodied, fresh and savory, with nice lively tannins but still integrated into the structure. Long and linear finish. Rich but balanced.

Personal rating: 90/100

 

 

Romanico Cesanese del Piglio Superiore DOCG 2018

100% Cesanese di Affile - 15/18 months in 1st/2nd passage barrique

The winery’s representer, a wine that wins awards year after year, undoubtedly one of the greatest expressions of the appellation it proudly represents.

Ruby/garnet, very clear and bright. On the nose is similar than Hernicus, with only the most evident boisè notes to add further richness without losing depth. Full-bodied but gentle on the palate, rich but at the same time fine and balanced, with the delicate notes given by the barrique which, adding to the fruity and balsamic references, make an already interesting profile more complex. Velvet tannin, long finish and great taste/olfactory coherence.

Personal rating: 92/100

 

Cosmato Frusinate IGT 2016

Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Cesanese di Affile - 15/18 months in 1st/2nd passage barriques

Antonello's homage to the beloved Bordeaux reds, a red with an international flavor coming from the grapes of a specific vineyard.

Intact ruby, darker and more intense than the others. Initially herbaceous nose, featured bythe typical notes of Cabernet Franc, improving with the passage of time in the glass, in which balsamic and coffee notes emerge. Full-bodied and balanced in the mouth, although less dynamic and thrusting than the tastes that preceded it. Wonderful tannin, dense but at the same time velvety. Final of important length, on fruity notes.

Personal rating: 89/100

 

 

Azienda Agricola Coletti Conti

Via Braccio - Stazione di Anagni, 10 - Anagni (FR)

http://www.coletticonti.it