Sagrantino Scacciadiavoli, a champion between supermarket wines
I have often talked about "supermarket wines", and about how their quality can fluctuate in an important way, to the point that often on the shelves of large-scale distribution there are labels with a limited level (or less).
Fortunately for us consumers, especially in recent years, it’s increasingly common to see "wine areas" of some hypermarkets even better, for quality and variety of choice, to most of the wine shops.
Also, given the large volumes that these groups are able to move – wandering around the “right” supermarkets – it’s not unusual to come across valuable labels on sale with great discounts.
A true champion of this “category” is surely the Sagrantino made by the Scacciadiavoli winery, an excellent wine which in some periods of the year is offered at a heavily discounted price by a well-known group of Italian GDO.
The winery is located inside the village from which the denomination takes its name (Montefalco), and originates its curious name from an episode dating back to the sixteenth century, in which a young girl possessed by the Devil succeeded "in the enterprise" to free her body thanks to some local wine that the exorcist made him drink.
It is one of the oldest in the area, as it can boast a more than centennial history (with the foundation dating back to 1884), but for almost seventy years it has been owned by Pambuffetti family, which with passion and dedication carries on the name of the winery and the traditions of Montefalco.
Today it boasts about 40 hectares of vineyards, for a total production of about 250,000 bottles (divided into whites, reds, sparkling wines and passito), but the flagship is undoubtedly the Sagrantino di Montefalco DOCG, which I tasted in numerous vintages, the last of which – 2011 vintage - I drank other evening.
What can I say, my friends.
A superior quality wine, to which the proverbial power of the grape is balanced by an elegance that for me has very few equals in this appellation, especially in this price range.
Open and expressive nose (another not quite usual aspect when we talk about Sagrantino), full-bodied but at the same time vibrant mouth, played on a continuous chase between acidity, flavor and tannin.
The alcohol content declared on the label (15°)? We didn't even notice it, and in fact the bottle was finished in a moment.
So, a great taste, which I feel I can recommend to all those who are looking for quality by looking (rightly) at the price, but also to those who - for ideological reasons - see supermarket wines as one of the great evils of this amazing and heterogeneous world.
Sagrantino di Montefalco DOCG 2011 – Azienda Agriciola Scacciadiavoli
Personal rating: 91/100
Grapes: 100% Sagrantino
Aging: 24 months in wood, of which 50% in barriques and 50% in 30hL oak barrels, followed by a further 12 months in bottle
Price range: 18-22 € (*)
(*) price list, but often it can be found on offer with lower prices
TASTING
👀 Bright garnet, less intense than expected. Excellent density, beautiful clarity.
👃 Clean, open and expressive and with beautiful complexity. Medium intensity and finesse. Dark fruit, mineral note, undergrowth, leather, balsamic nuance.
👄 Full-bodied, coherent and structured. Fresh and savory, with a balance slightly shifted to hardness. Robust tannin but without being invasive, alcoholic content masterfully managed. Very good persistence, spicy finish with nuances reminiscent of roots and bitter licorice
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