My wine terroirs (3) - Langhe and Nebbiolo

“Barbaresco is the wine of the best evenings of your life, it will never betray you; but for the last night of your existence, it takes a Barolo "

(Anonymous Langa Producer - cit. Taken from
Elogio dell’invecchiamento" by Andrea Scanzi)

Some time ago a famous advertisement it said: "There are things you can't buy, everything else there is a Mastercard". Ok guys, admiring and enjoying the view of Langa sitting on a wall of Grinzane Cavour Castle - especially close to the harvest period - is without doubt one of those.

Sinuous hills that alternate one after the other one, merging on the horizon as a single body, but above all vineyards perfectly maintained that extend as far as the eye can see, making it clear which is the only and undisputed king of Langa: the wine.

Talking about Langhe and wine is a long and complex history, which has its roots several centuries ago, which over the course of time has concerned princes, kings, marquises, counts, presidents and senators, that is all the nobility and the important people of our country.

Bartolo Mascarello

But it’s also and above all a peasant hystory, of people, of old and great masters (as Bartolo Mascarello and Bruno Giacosa) and of young visionaries (the famous Barolo Boys), who for decades have lived in condition of poverty, but without to lose their soul, and indeed they have been able to trasfer it into their wines, at first produced only for self-consumption, then for distribution to third parties and only finally bottled with their names.

However Langhe - a land rich in many souls - and wine, have a single common denominator, which, like a large elastic band, binds everything and everyone, leading them back to the same point: the Nebbiolo.

Bruno Giacosa

Nebbiolo is a grape that "loves to work as a soloist", difficult to cultivate and to vinify, with rather late ripening and widespread in various other areas of Piedmont - with some sporadic trespassing beyond the border (Valtellina) - which, however, finds in this splendid corner of our beautiful country, especially inside the district called "Langa Albese”, the conditions and that kind of magic to give life two of the greatest wines of the Italian peninsula: Barolo and Barbaresco.

Two great and legendary wines, which in my opinion are as the king and queen of our national enology.

Beppe Rinaldi

Barolo is serious, austere, powerful, sometimes even intractable (especially during youth), a wine with important acidity and generally thick and powerful tannins.

Some - joking but not too much - claim that a great Barolo is a wine “that is never ready”. In every case it/’s a real male, proud of his leader status and which does nothing to hide it.

Angelo Gaja

Instead, Barbaresco is more persuasive and composed, generally more pleasant during youth than Barolo, while maintaining the varietal aspects and the typical characters of the great aging wine.

Therefore , it has the appearance of the perfect dame, that are able to enchant those who stand before her without renouncing to her character and ego. 



However, it’s also evident that within these two denominations there are countless versions annd sub-typologies, due to the types of soil , altitudes that can also be significantly variable and - above all - very heterogeneous philosophies among the various producers.

Then, there is a further aspect to consider, which makes this area almost unique in the Italian wine scene, bringing it together with Burgundy: the remarkable characterization of the wine on the basis of the different subzones (or "crus", following French definition) that vineyards belong.

As happens in Burgundy, even in Langa vineyards very close from a geographical point of view - also belonging to the same producer - give rise to wines that are quite distant and different from each other, wines profoundly marked by their terroir and therefore recognizable (as well as extremely wanted) by food and wine enthusiasts.

Going into more detail, municipalities in which these two great wines can be produced - and their related crus - are many, but wanting to provide a general indication about the characteristics of the final product according to the place of origin, it can be said that:

-Barolo produced in the common that gives its name to the denomination is generally elegant, composed and quite enjoyable already in its youth (therefore tending to resemble a Barbaresco). The most famous cru within the municipal area is for sure Cannubi, the historic cru of the denomination - but also Sarmassa and Brunate (the latter shared with La Morra) are highly rated

- Barolo coming from Serralunga d’Alba area tends to be austere, powerful, with very marked tannins especially in its youth and great predisposition to aging. The most renowned crus within this municipality are Francia (where are located the vineyards used to produce the legendary Barolo "Monfortino), Vigna Rionda and Lazzarito

- Barolo produced in Monforte d'Alba is a bit of a middle ground between the two types described above, showing important structure and longevity but at the same time discreet balance and pleasantness in youth. The best known and appreciated cru of this common is for sure Bussia

- Barolo coming from La Morra is generally more expressive and pleasant in its youth, fine and defined in its aromas but at the same time less structured and with less predisposition to aging. The most popular crus here are Monfalletto and Cerequio, in addition to the same Brunate already mentioned above and shared with the common of Barolo

- Barbaresco produced within the municipality of the same name is generally characterized by elegance, finesse and an important propensity for aging. Its most famous crus are the historical ones of the denomination, above all Asili (which gives rise to extremely complex, deep and long-lived wines, although often monolithic in youth), Rabajà (able to give persuasive wines but at the same time are extremely balanced and elegant ) and finally Martinenga (which has the peculiarity of being what that in France is ​​called "cru monopole", that is belonging to a single company

- Barbaresco coming from Neive, finally, it's marked by its power, body and by ability to be linear and direct, especially during youth. His most famous crus are surely Gallina and Albesani

About my “heart crus” - since inside these wines I seek elegance, definition and depth more than amplitude and power – I think that are probably Cannubi for Barolo and Rabajà for Barbaresco, but in this case there is something for everyone, and every wine lover has his favorite sub-areas or his reference producers.

However, is undisputable that beyond the great numbers of interpretations and production styles, the history of this wine area represents an admirable example of social redemption of an entire territory.

A land which, thanks to the tenacity and perseverance of the people who are written this story, is able to reverse the course of its destiny, transforming a depressed agricultural area into a flagship of the viticulture and wine tourism (not only Italian but even international), but without denying - at least in the majority of its interpreters - its own traditions and values.

Bonus Track: 3 labels not to be missed

Personal note: Considering an high number of excellent companies (and related wines) in this territory, instead of three labels I should have indicated three hundred of them. For this reason, more than for an absolute value reason, this time my choice follows exclusively an emotional criterion, as well as - let me – considering the price/quality ratio, an aspect that is can’t be forgot in successfull denominations, that in many cases have reached market prices of their wines not commensurate to real taste value.

Barolo Cannubi - Serio & Battista Borgogno. Elegant, very distinct but at the same time great structure wine, as well as character (and tannin...) to sell. Made by a small company that works very well.

Barbaresco Rabajà - Giuseppe Cortese. A must-have wine, which are able to make you fall in love at the first taste. Very clean and wraparound but at the same time robust and firm wine, with important evolutionary potential (especially in the best vintages).

Barolo Lazzarito Riserva - Ettore Germano. A giant, a wine with an impetuous character, with an imposing body and strength, which, however, year after year is able to refine and smooth their edges, becoming more and more elegant and deep.