Chianti Classico: one terroir, many identities

 

The discussion about identity, or rather the recognizability of a certain appellation is probably one of the most interesting ot the entire world of wine.

In some cases, the combination of grape variety and territory generates a real homologation of the taste-olfactory profile, as a result of which the wines of a certain geographical area - regardless of their intrinsic quality - appear all very similar.

An emblematic example in this sense are the New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, especially if coming from Marlborough region (which among other things I love), featered by aromas and tastes so marked and outlined to the point of having almost created a brand, a recognizable style, as well as very appreciated.

At the same time, there are also opposite situations, that is appellations that for a lot of factors have within them different souls, dissimilar interpretations of the same terroir.

And if we talk about heterogeneity in wine, we cannot fail to make a direct association with Chianti Classico, a DOCG of great value and history but often "underrated" by critics and enthusiasts, also due to debatable commercial choices.

Here, when I think of wines with “Gallo Nero label” with reference to the styles associated with them, the famous Pirandello novel entitled “One, No One and One Hundred Thousand” comes to mind.

One like Sangiovese, common denominator of the wines of this territory, able to transmitting in the glass the basic features (acidity and drinkability above all) that are found in every Chianti Classico.

No One because even if there’s a vine that joins all the wines of this appellation, it certainly cannot be said that it exists a "dominant" interpretation, capable of putting all the others behind it.

One hundred thousand (in a figurative sense) as the different souls that coexist in harmony in this wonderful wine-growing area of ​​Tuscany.

In fact, without wanting to exaggerate, it’s really difficult - when you approach the nose and mouth to a glass of Chianti Classico - to be sure of the characters we will find in the glass.

It’s often a question of shades, of small aspects that may seem "insignificant" to a distracted drinker, but for those who love this terroir it’s really nice – but also challenging – to immerse yourself in this “sea of ​​interpretations”.

Researching in detail the reasons that determine this "unicum", for me there are at least four macro-factors that, mixing with each other, combine to create the "one hundred thousand" versions of Chianti Classico that I mentioned earlier.

First of all, the fact that Sangiovese - the founding vine of this DOCG - is undoubtedly a neutral grape, and therefore not very homologable, especially at the olfactory level.

Therefore, it represents a sort of perfect base from which to build original  but at the same time very pleasant and highly appreciated wines.

Furthermore, the “Gallo Nero appellation” is one of the largest for extension, presenting very different geographic areas within it, faureted by extremely different altitudes and average temperatures.

To think that a wine produced in Radda in Chianti (in areas where Sangiovese even struggled to reach full maturity until a few decades ago) can be assimilated to one produced in the famous “Conca di Panzano” is just insane.

To make a bold but at the same time fitting comparison, it would be like thinking of the environment in which we live, the education we are given as children and the conditions in which we grow up do not contribute in any way to shape our personality and our character.

It would be equivalent to saying that Rousseau told us a lot of lies...

Returning to earth (after this "modest" socio-philosophical digression) another aspect that contributes to making Chianti Classico wines a puzzle in which it is often difficult to extricate oneself is the heterogeneity of the soils.

In fact, alongside areas featured by sandy soils there are areas rich in sandstone deposits (extremely poor in organic substances), in addition to those in which the galestro/alberese soil prevails, undoubtedly the most "valuable" , the one from usually born the great reds of Tuscany.

Also, the land is not made up of a single type of soil, but ends up being a mix of these, with very different percentages, within a few kilometers of each other.

Finally, the aspect that in Italy can never be lacking, namely that of the different personal styles with which Chianti Classico is "praised" and interpreted.

Some producers vinify Sangiovese in purity, others - nearer to tradition - prefer to "cut it" with native grapes (Colorino and Canaiolo above all), still others "support" it by adding small quantities of international vines.

The wood used for aging is also another discussion object, with the usual diatribe between large barrel and barrique to keep the center of the debate, very often generating the usual fringes of wine "extremists".

Not to mention the fact that a few years ago "Gran Selezione" mention is added to the classic "Vintage" and "Riserva" ones, generating added confusion, as well as further widening the meshes within which it is possible to move.

In short, there are all the elements to confuse the average consumer, but at the same time to excite and generate interest in the most advanced drinker.

Personally, despite seeking elegance and finesse in wine, I realize that I prefer a "model" of Chianti Classico a little more oriented on strength and progression, perhaps because drinkability - an aspect that in my opinion should never be lacking in a wine - it is a feature that is found in almost all bottles of this appellation.

In any case, there really is something for all palates, from lovers of fine and elegant wines (to whom I recommend looking in the Lamole or Radda area) to those who in a they mainly look for balance and pleasantness (to which I suggest those produced in San Casciano or Castellina) to reach lovers of more structured and tannic wines (who then cannot miss the Chianti produced in Castelnuovo Berardenga).

If I can give you some advice, I invite you, as soon as possible, to take a week or two of vacation from work and leave for this territory.

You will discover a real corner of paradise, full of breathtaking views and beautiful villages, as well as a myriad of wonderful companies and people.

 

Bonus Track: 3 labels not to be missed

Personal note: Also in this case the great density of producers (and related wines) of excellent value has "forced" me to choose the three labels using an affective and emotional criterion, as well as - allow me also this time - a quality / price ratio , aspect that is right never to neglect.

Chianti Classico Isole and Olena: Obtained from Sangiovese grapes to which a part of Canaiolo and Syrah is added, it’s an intense and full bodied wine, extremely rich and featured by a very pleasant spiciness, as well as by a progression worthy of the best expressions of this appellation. In the years in which it manages to keep alcohol in check, it’s truly a spectacle for the senses.

Chianti Classico Querciabella: Sangiovese in purity, produced by combining grapes from vineyards located in different areas of the appellation, expresses elegance and finesse at the highest levels. A wine of great quality but at the same time with a killer drinkability. I prefer the "vintage" version to the "Riserva" one, more structured but often a little compressed and monolithic, especially at a young age. 

Chianti Classico Riserva “Borro del Diavolo” Ormanni: Another pure Sangiovese, it’s a complex wine but at the same time enveloping and harmonious, consistent but with perfectly balanced tannins. One of the “Chianti Classico Riserva” with the best quality/price ratio that I have ever tasted.