Collepiano by Caprai, when Sagrantino’s soul is also in the big numbers

It’s often thought that wines produced in large quantities are low-level products, or – even if it shows an evident quality – they are not able to represent a terroir and its character.

I talked about it in an old article, in which I talked about the “challenge” between industrial wines and real wines, and usually the reasoning above has its own truth foundation.

But - obviously – in every rule there are the exceptions, which in this case it means the existence of wines produced in considerable volumes but at the same time of great value and perfectly adherent to the terroir from which they come.

For example, how can we even claim that Sassicaia (produced in about 200,000 bottles a year) doesn’t represent the deepest soul of Bolgheri and the Tuscan coast? Or that Tignanello (another label marked by big numbers) isn’t a great expression of the Chianti Sangiovese?

I had a further demonstration in this sense yesterday evening, in front of Sagrantino di Montefalco Collepiano 2011, made by Caprai winery.

A wine produced between 100,000 and 150,000 bottles/year, the “younger” brother of the famous and iconic Sagrantino 25Anni and which is often found (sometimes even on offer) on the shelves of large-scale distribution.

Beyond this, a bottle of amazing precision, elegant and refined on the nose (usually the weak point of this appellation), vigorous but at the same time harmonious on the palate, with the proverbial Sagrantino’s tannin still lively but perfectly absorbed in the important structure of the wine.

A great wine, a poignant balance of strength and harmony, a label that can best show the character of Sagrantino but at the same time the soul of the Montefalco terroir.

One of the most admirable examples of widespread quality that I have ever found myself dealing with in these years of tastings and passion for wine.

Chapeau!

 

 

Collepiano Sagrantino di Montefalco DOCG 2011

Personal rating: 94/100

Grapes: 100% Sagrantino

Aging: 22 months in French oak barriques

Alcohol Content: 14%

Price range: 20-25 €

TASTING

👀 Ruby to garnet, intense and deep, important density

👃 Clean, still intact and youthful despite the years, intense and fine (more than expected and than the average of the wines of this appellation). Good complexity. Dark fruits (blackberry and ripe plum), cloves, balsamic (menthol), sweet nuance of powder in the background

 👄 Full-bodied and with good taste/olfactory consistency. Powerful and vigorous in the mouth, with a good balance between acidity and alcoholic heat. Tannin still lively but at the same time well integrated into the structure. Excellent persistence, closing on fruity notes and with herbal and coffee references.