Sanlorenzo, Luciano's dream become reality

 

 

Being enthusiasts (of wine but not only) also means going around on a warm Friday afternoon in August, while the car showing a temperature close to 40 °.

When reason would tell you to remain in the hotel, better if with the air conditioning on and a cold drink on the bedside table.

But if this allows you to meet people like Luciano Ciolfi and visit companies like Sanlorenzo - which for several years has been one of the most solid and interesting realities in the Montalcino wine scene - every “sacrifice” is certainly well rewarded.

As soon as he arrived, I don't know if because of that sort of "wine excitement" that affects us enthusiasts or for objective reasons, the heat suffered up to that moment has suddenly vanished, dominated by a very pleasant (and unexpected) breeze that has invested the farm and the adjacent vineyards.

The company is located on the south-west side of the appellation, at about 500 meters above sea level, and the strong influence of the sea combined with a very "open" position allow for ventilation and a decidedly high temperature variations, two primary factors for quality viticulture.

It has about 5 hectares of vineyards, all around the property, with a production of about 20,000 bottles/year (usually 15,000 of Brunello and 5,000 of Rosso).

Cultivation of the grapes in an organic regime, and aging in oak barrels of various sizes, with the peculiarity of not carrying out decanting during this period.

Luciano, an affable and of great modesty person, then told me the story of the cellar (now arrived on the third generation of vignerons), but at the same time we talked about wine at 360 °, exchanging opinions as if we were old friends who meet again after a long time.

We discussed the management of different vintages and climate change, as well as commercial aspects and the price of wine, as well as the importance of a structure as the tasting commissions inside appellations.

But above all, Luciano let his wines speak for themselves, which I liked every time I had the opportunity to meet them, and which certainly didn’t disappoint me this time either.

We started with Rosato 2019, obtained by bleeding from Sangiovese grapes fermented for about 12 hours and then vinified as a white. A wine born for self-consumption and produced in small quantities (less than 1000 bottles / year), very fresh and savory, with an wonderful pleasantness and a killer drinkability, for me - who generally don't like rosé wines - a real revelation.

Then, we moved on to Rosso di Montalcino 2018, coming from the youngest vineyards and aged for 6/8 months in almost exhausted barriques. A wine with a clean nose and without any wood contamination, all played on the ripe fruit and with floral returns. Full bodied on the palate, consistent and balanced, with a non-invasive tannin that is felt only a little bit on the finish.

After having “vinified” the mouth, here comes his Majesty the Brunello, of which I have tasted the last three vintages on the market, plus the 2013 Riserva and the long-awaited 2016 “tapped” directly from the barrel.

In general, I was struck by the coherence between the various tastings, in the wake of a company style that year after year appears consolidated and recognizable, despite the differences caused by different vintages.

A classic but at the same time “genuine” style, made of respect for the varietal characteristics and a wise and careful wood use, having the precise function of softening - without distorting – Sangiovese’s features.

A Brunello with a nose marked by a clear and lively fruit, with soft notes of tobacco, spice and earth in the background, increasing its complexity and elegance.

In the mouth, then, the character of the great aging Sangiovese emerges amain, with acidity and tannin chasing and overlapping, while maintaining an admirable pleasantness and balance. Always excellent persistence, as well as the retro-olfactory cleansing.

 

Going finally into the details of the different tastings:

-      the 2015 vintage seemed to me to be for many aspects the least interesting, not so much for the taste itself (characterized by an important body and a good balance, without any alcoholic excesses whatsoever) but more in terms of restricted aging capacity

-      the 2014 vintage showed - paradoxically - greater evolutionary margins compared to 2015. A balanced and varietal wine, even in the wake of a "difficult" vintage and without a monumental structure

-      the 2013 vintage, already tasted and appreciated several times, further convinced me, proving - in my opinion - the best wine of the series. Youthful but fine and elegant nose, full-bodied but at the same time decidedly boosting mouth, with great acidity / tannin balance and a delicate flavor to give further vivacity.

-      the 2013 Riserva instead showed a slightly more spicy nose than the others (probably due to the use of 10hl barrels instead of 30hl as for the vintage), and a mouth characterized by a remarkable body and a silky and extremely fine tannic texture, although at the moment it needs time to fully express its important potential

-      the 2016 vintage, tasted directly from cask is a wine already with well-defined characteristics, which, despite its extreme youth, has all the credentials to become a Brunello of great level, for balance and aging skills