Cesanese, an underrated grape

When we talk about Lazio’s wine, it’s often affirmed that is basically an area for white wines, and most of the time not too high-level.

About red wines, it’s almost better not to talk about it.

Personally, also recognizing the good quality of any white productions, I believe this statement to be the classic "piece of nonsense", for at least one reason and a half.

The "half" is made up of the productions based on the so-called international grapes, which determine an important slice of the regional wine volumes and which - despite being quite far from my personal tastes - have a dignity and a value that cannot be put in any way discussion.

The “whole” reason instead lies in the indigenous productions, which although today don’t enjoy a great reputation, however, have quality and potential to be able to aspire to a very different fame.

I am thinking of the Nero Buono, widespread and cultivated in the area of ​​the Lepini Mountains near the town of Cori, but above all of the Cesanese, for me one of the most underrated grape on the entire national wine context.

A grape grown in different areas of the region, but which traditionally can be traced back to the northern area of ​​Frosinone’s province and in the area of ​​the province of Rome bordering to it, the same area in which it best expresses its characteristics and potential.

In some ways - and without wishing to be blasphemous - I have always considered it a "one and three" vine, as despite being spread over three denominations (Cesanese del Piglio DOCG, Cesanese di Olevano Romano DOC and Cesanese di Affile DOC) is however able to maintain, beyond any different nuances, a well-defined and evident identity character.

A difficult grape, which if mistreated (as often happens) gives rise to products that are also rather poor and banal, but which in particular conditions and in the presence of a rigorous and methodical work (in the vineyard but also in the cellar) can give life to wines of absolute thickness.

Wines with elegant and complex aromas, powerful but extremely balanced on the palate, in which the typical acidity of the grape is perfectly balanced by the tannin, which tends to be nice strong but which - if well managed - can be sweet and velvety.

There are several reference winery - and labels, but I had further proof of the potential of this vine a few nights ago, in front of Coletti Conti's Cesanese del Piglio Superiore Romanico 2015.

A great classic of the appellation, one of the most splendid standard bearers of a wine-growing area that has all the possibility to arrive at a consideration - by critics but also and above all by enthusiasts - decidedly higher than that currently enjoyed.

Cesanese del Piglio Superiore Romanico 2015 - Coletti Conti
Personal rating: 90/100
Grapes: 100% Cesanese di Affile
Aging: 15 months in French oak barriques
Price range: 20-25 €

TASTING
👀 Ruby with garnet tendency, good intensity and density, excellent clarity

👃Elegant and enveloping, with good intensity and complexity. Ripe red fruit, plum, light floral nuance, delicate spicy (pepper) and balsamic (licorice) notes

👄Good body, pleasant and balanced, with a nice acidic shoulder to ensure drinkability and longevity and a robust tannin but well integrated into the structure, as well as good finesse (to denote the wise use of small wood). Excellent persistence, coherent and very clean finish