2017 Brunello, the (almost) perfect management of an hard vintage

 

When it was presented (February 2018), Brunello’s 2017 vintage were awarded with four stars, and most of the insiders thought that the judgment had been wide-ranging.

In fact, beyond the evaluation of the Consortium, 2017 was truly a difficult vintage, which began with a very dry winter and spring, which was followed by a hot summer.

All this - albeit mitigated by any rains in the first half of September - resulted in an early harvest as well as featured by yields up to 30% lower than the “perfect” 2016, moreover with the potential risk of incomplete phenolic ripening.

Almost four years later, and after the fire test of the tastings of the other day (in which the highly anticipated 2016 Riserva was presented together with 2017, which I will discuss in detail in the next article), we can safely say that Montalcino’s producers , once more, have made a little masterpiece, interpreting at best a vintage full of pitfalls which - without forgettingthat it was a preview and therefore its value will be confirmed by time - has surprised positively, fully deserving the four stars assigned on the past and showing more lights than shadows.

The wines offered for tasting, beyond a few exceptions, showed a decidedly high average level, with intact and almost never overripe or woody olfactory profiles, indeed in many cases even airy and balsamic.

In the mouth, freshness and flavor are almost never lacking, with the sole discriminating factor of tannin, in most cases of good (if not excellent) finesse but in any executions decidedly bulky and drying.

Finally, for intellectual honesty but also for judgment completeness, two small shadows within a substantially positive judgment of the event and the year presented therein, one of a technical nature, the other of a general / organizational nature.

The first one concerns the minor characterization of the wines in relation to the slopes of origin, probably magnified by an harvest in which the choices - in the vineyard but also in the cellar - were "forced" by the seasonal climatic trend.

The other one is about the increasingly conspicuous absence of estates from the event which in fact presents the new vintages and promotes the entire appellation, both in terms of absolute numbers that of reference producers (for example Marroneto, Fuligni, Le Potazzine, Baricci, Cerbaiona and Le Ragnaie, which are added to those that have deserted the event for several years now, starting to Biondi-Santi). An aspect that many, within Brunello di Montalcino’s Consortium but also outside it, cannot fail to question themselves.

Below, the list of tastes - I recognize the Magnificent Seven is a bit too much but gives the idea - that have struck me most within a vintage which probably will not go down in history like the vintage that preceded it, but which has confirmed the prestige and value of an entire appellation.

 

7) Tiezzi Vigna Soccorso

Garnet, classic and traditional. Particular nose even in the wake of the producer and the characters of the vineyard. Vegetable notes, tobacco, oriental spices, earthy, with hints of fruit in the background. Medium to full body, elegant, coherent, with a nice freshness, good savory and lively but no invasive tannint. Important persistence, coherent ending Still a thread of wood to integrate, but always recognizable and very pleasant. 92+

 

6) Fattoria del Pino

Intact garnet, medium intensity. Very beautiful nose, pulsating, young and vigorous. Fresh fruit, delicate glazed note, oriental spices. Full bodied, coherent with nose, featured by beautiful sapidity, lively acidity, precise and non-invasive tannins. Very good persistence, clean finish even if a little falling down, on light almond notes. Despite this, for me the most surprising taste of the day. 93

 

5) Talenti "Piero"

Ruby/garnet, average intensity and density. Intense nose of good finesse, mature but without excess. Ripe cherries, tobacco, sweet spices, pepper, earthy notes. Full-bodied but not heavy, very fresh and accompanied by a delicious flavor, important but integrated tannins. Remarkable persistence, multi-faceted, spicy, balsamic finish with light woody hints. Very good expression, with important evolutionary margins. 93+

 

4) Le Chiuse

Ruby/garnet, medium intensity but rather dense. Powerful but elegant nose, very expressive and fascinating, for me the best of the day. Blood orange, toasted hazelnut, floral, fresh fruit, light licorice in the background and almost absent wood. Full-bodied but very juicy mouth, non-spatial acidity, nice sapidity, dense but fine tannin. Important persistence, perhaps a warm thread on the finish. Another confirmation of a producer that has now risen to be one of the appellation references. 94

 

3) Poggio di Sotto

Ruby/garnet, medium intensity, dense and luminous. Nose of great cleanliness, delicate and youthful but at the same time well defined. Fresh fruit, oriental spices, menthol note and a very light woody nuance to enrich the profile. Medium to full bodied, consistent and precise, fresh and savory and with dense but extremely fine tannins. Important persistence, tasty finish and without any smudging. Delicious and technically flawless. 95

 

2) Uccelliera

Classic garnet, quite intense, nice density. Delicate butfine and defined nose, as well as of good complexity. Earthy notes, ripe cherries, sweet spices, eucalyptus. Excellent and full-bodied mouth, wonderful freshness and delicious flavor, very dense but velvety tannin, which perfectly cleans the palate. Super persistence, finish on delicate spicy and woody hints. (Almost) masterful reading of the vintage by a top value estate. 95+

 

1) Giodo

Intact ruby, bright, medium intense and dense. Powerful and particular nose, associated with an “adult” Brunello, not with a preview. Dark fruit, oriental spices, tertiary note (meat), woody hints, balsamic shadow in the background. Full-bodied but at the same time pulsating mouth, very rich and ample, with perfect freshness/tannin mix typical of great aging Sangiovese and an important and uninterrupted flavor. Excellent persistence, clean finish with notes of toasted hazelnut and light animal nuances. Great taste, no other words. 95+