The exception that confirms the rule

Among the most granitic certainties in the world of wine, two of these are about Burgundy and its wines.

The first is a "positive" aspect, and is related to their unbelievable quality, which makes them count - both in the field of reds (based on Pinot Noir) and whites (based on Chardonnay) - among the best wines in the world, if not directly on the absolute vertex.

The other one, on the opposite, wants that the Burgundy Reds, for a lot of reasons (continental climate, difficult and demanding grape variety, very high prices) are the wines with the worst quality / price ratio, and that to drink a good wine from this area you need to spend a capital.

On the first aspect, from my personal experience I do not express myself, also because having a portfolio lightly far from the "Russian oligarch" or "Arab sheikh" level, I never approached the myths of this denomination.

On the second statement, on the basis of my previous experiences I allow myself to agree, even if, as in all the rules, there are - and in this case I would say fortunately - any exceptions.

One of these is undoubtedly represented by the bottle that I had the opportunity to drink last evening, a Bourgogne En Montre-Cul 2013 made by Chateau de Marsannay, an important and prestigious company, with vineyards (and consequent wines) in the most famous and renowned crus from the region.

A label coming from a lesser-known appellation - located on the northernmost side of the Côte dei Nuits - and with an affordable cost (not exceeding 20€/bottle).

A wine that, however, in spite of the premises and in some ways also of my expectations, turned out to be a great example of Burgundy red.

Gorgeous and bright in the glass, very clean and elegant on the nose – where it has shown mature but certainly not evolved -, linear but at the same time of great pleasant and balance in the mouth.

Of course, there’s a lack of body and depth for excellence, but considering its drinkability and its price (especially in these parts) it is really difficult to find better.

If you have not already done so, I highly recommend you try it (better with a few years on your shoulders, as in my case), and let me know what you think!


Borgogne En Montre-Cul 2013 - Chateau de Marsannay
Personal judgment: 91/100
Grapes: 100% Pinot Noir
Aging: 11 months in French oak barrels
Price range: 15-20 €

TASTING
👀
Garnet, intense, medium density, bright and transparent in the glass
👃Very clean, mature but certainly not evolved. Medium intensity, elegant and with complexity more than expected. Tobacco, cola, spices, light balsamic, blackberry fruits. Alcohol in the background.
👄Medium body, fresh and sapid, not particularly complex but extremely pleasant and balanced. Light and integrated tannin. Good persistence, consistent finish on spicy and woody notes.

 

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