Overall analylis of last ten vintages of Brunello: was it true glory?

A particular edition of Benvenuto Brunello has just ended, off-limits to the public and therefore limited to insiders only, in which 2016 vintage (probably wonderful) of this great and known wine was presented.

Every year, during this event, in addition to having a preview tasting of the wines coming out, the Consortium provides an evaluation of the vintage just harvested.

It does so by assigning a number of stars (ranging from a minimum of one to a maximum of five) which testify to the "potential" value of the vintage itself and of the Brunello that will derive from it a few years later.

It’s logical that if we speak directly with the host the wine is always wonderful or amazing (or at least never less than good), but since Brunello di Montalcino is an appellation featured by important - in some cases superb - skills to evolve and improve over the years, it’s clear that the real evaluation of the vintage greatness can only be provided by the passage of time.

But what has really happened over the years? Have the almost always important expectations proved to be such or have evaluation errors often been made?

So let's see how the last 10 vintages of Brunello on the commerce are behaving, clearly in general terms and with some small personal considerations, including the labels that – vintage by vintage - have excited me most.

 

 

2006

Consortium evaluation: * * * *

Climatically variable vintage, with frequent rains until June and hot and sunny summer months, but with a rather good and regular harvest period. Evaluated in terms of excellence, both by the consortium and by the critics, who had gone so far as to consider it one of the best vintages of the last fifty years. Wines that have just been released were featured by incredible freshness and high quality tannins, but also by an aromatic verve and energy that foreshadowed the classic “great vintage”. In fact, it has substantially confirmed the judgments that had been given to it, and today is considered an almost reference vintage for the appellation, even if it has often shown substantial differences - both in terms of absolute quality and evolutionary potential - between the wines coming from the highest and coolest areas of the district and those produced in the southern area.

Personal rating: 9/10

My wine of the year: Sanlorenzo Bramante 2006 (94/100)

 

 

2007

Consortium evaluation: * * * * *

A linear vintage, very hot in the bud break period and with a summer that saw the first rains fall only in August, but with a decidedly regular harvest period. Another harvest welcomed with great enthusiasm by the consortium but also and above all by critics, since featured by extremely full-bodied and structured wines. Over time, however, it has not fully demonstrated the potential it was cloaked in, on the contrary it has disappointed expectations in several occasions, with wines that have often turned out to be early evolved or in any case not capable of acquiring complexity and elegance over the years. in the bottle.

Personal judgment: 7.5/10

My Brunello of the year: Corte dei Venti Riserva 2007 (94/100)

 

 

2008

Consortium evaluation: * * * *

 

A particular vintage, featured by a rather rainy spring and a normal summer but "marked" by a strong hailstorm on August 15th, an event that forced producers to make drastic harvest choices, with consequent reductions in the volumes produced. Evaluated well but certainly not in terms of excellence, over the years it has taken revenge, showing wines less powerful than those of the previous vintages, but capable of giving harmony and elegance, as well as expressing themselves a lot well over the years.

Personal judgment: 7.5/10

My Brunello of the year: Uccelliera 2008 (93/100)

 

 

 

2009

Consortium evaluation: * * * *

Certainly a vintage far to the perfection, with frequent spring rains to slow down the growth and a rather hot and dry summer, albeit with some rainy interludes. In short, the "ideal" conditions for the appearance of the typical diseases of the vine. Linear harvest period with no events to report. It was even evaluated more than it should have been, and in fact it substantially confirmed the judgment, with balanced wines right from the beginning even if often with some structural limitations, as well as with substantial qualitative differences between the various labels.

Personal rating: 7/10

 My Brunello of the year: Fuligni 2009 (93/100)

 

 

2010

Consortium evaluation: * * * * *

 

Climatically perfect vintage, with regular rainfall during the budding phase, dry and without heat peaks summer. Excellent harvest period, without rain and featured by important daily temperature variations. The great vintage, in the premises but above all in the facts, able to challenge those that have made history and determined the greatness of this denomination. Very high average quality, wines without any defects: olfactory elegance, concentration, complexity and aging skills. Probably, a vintage destined to remain etched in the history books.

Personal rating: 9.5/10

My Brunello of the year: Altesino Montosoli 2010 (96/100)

 

 

2011

Consortium evaluation: * * * *

A not easy vintage, featured by frequent spring rains and a really hot summer, with yields below to the average. Very early harvest even if with a regular development. A medium-level vintage, with alcohol content often over the top but with almost all wines ready and balanced immediately, even if with a little bit patchy quality. In short, those who were able to manage the summer emergency brought out harmonious and high-quality wines, the others were penalized by too warm wines with a finesse that is not suitable for a Brunello di Montalcino.

Personal judgment: 7.5/10

My Brunello of the year: Argiano 2011 (94/100)

 

 

 

2012

Consortium evaluation: * * * * *

 

Hot vintage, feature by a spring and above all by a summer with almost no rainfall, even if the winter precipitations (including snow) allowed a providential accumulation of water in the groundwater. Harvest period with some rain but rather regular. Naturally low yields and very high potential quality of the grapes. As soon as it came out it was valued sumptuously, practically at the level of 2010, but in fact it has not managed to keep up with the great vintage, even if the average level is proving to be very good. Wines with important aging skills, in some cases authentic masterpieces, but often compressed by an extract and an alcoholic structure that is too impressive.

Personal rating: 8+/10

My Brunello of the year: Il Marroneto Madonna delle Grazie 2012 (97/100)

 

 

2013

Consortium evaluation: * * * *

Fresh vintage, almost classic and traditional, with average temperatures and regular and never too invasive rains. Also, good harvest period, with some precipitation but also with important daily temperature variations. Vintage well evaluated but not considered as great and with variable results depending on the different areas of the appellation. But an almost ideal vintage for Sangiovese, since it allowed the production of wines featured by high acidity and vigorous tannins (main indicators of the aging skills of this grape) without the alcoholic surplus typical of the two previous vintages. One of my preferred vintage.

Personal rating: 8.5 / 10

My Brunello of the year: Le Chiuse 2013 (95 ++ / 100)

 

 

2014 Consortium evaluation: * * *

 

A fresh (almost cold) vintage, but above all very rainy, especially during the summer, with consequent problems of vegetative development but above all of phytosanitary management of the vineyards. Overall the worst harvest of the last 10 years, to the point that almost no producer has considered it appropriate to bottle the Riserva. Wines, however, of good quality, fine and pleasant, even if generally lacking the complexity and progression that is sought in a Brunello di Montalcino.

Personal rating: 6++/10

My Brunello of the year: Castello Tricerchi 2014 (92/100)

 

  

2015

Consortium evaluation: * * * * *

A linear vintage, featured by a cool and fairly rainy spring and a hot summer. Regular harvest period, with excellent day/night excursions and ripe and healthy grapes. Vintage rated as superlative in the awarding of stars, considered by many to be the true "vintage of the century", but it didn’t fully confirm expectations. Definitely structured wines, with impressive extracts and ripe and velvety tannins, but in many cases lacking that vibrant acidity that ensures long life for Brunello di Montalcino. In short, seated giants, rich and balanced wines almost immediately, but with evolutionary potential not exactly typical of a great vintage.

Personal rating: 8.5-/10

My Brunello of the year: Pietroso 2015 (94+/100)